I think he means to get specs associated with the driver and put them in WINISD and it will create a box design for you.
Some important things to consider.
Your amp only plays 165Hz and less. So even if you get a sub that does wonderful at 300Hz you are not going to use that part of it. I hope that your main speakers will handle somewhere between 100 and 165 well so that you have a clean transition from woofer to main speakers.
IRT the amp only covering 165 and less you will want to make sure that the woofer you select has a very flat response curve (SPL/Frequency) from somewhere greater than 165 to somewhere between 30 and 40 or even lower. I think we stop hearing music at around 16Hz but you still feel it.
So you should look at the specs of your main speakers and find how low they go and pick a woofer that has a flat response up to at least a little higher frequency than the lowest frequency that your main speakers are flat at. That way you have a smooth transition from main speakers to sub.
These numbers are available on most speaker sales websites and you will see a graph that shows the SPL at certain frequencys. SO in the last post we talked about Sound Pressure Level at one meter with one watt. When you look at this graph it will show you the SPL on each specific frequency with that speaker at one meter with one watt. With regular Full Range speakers they usually start to have higher SPLs at higher frequencies which means at one watt with one meter the higher frequencies are actually louder. Woofers are usually flat from around 30Hz to a few hundred or sometimes a few thousand and then drops off significantly.
Take
http://www.madisound.com/catalog/produc ... cts_id=301 for example.
This one is flat from 150 to 5000Hz. It has an FS of 29Hz which is as low as it can perform well.
Notice that when I say the SPL/Frequency graph is FLAT that it is flat at about 90SPL. Lets imagine that is your main speaker. The sub to match it would have to be FLAT from anywhere over 150Hz to less than 30Hz. ALSO that same sub would be nice to be FLAT at around the same SPL of 90db but that is only very important if you are driving it from the same amp as the other two speakers. In this case you have a separate amp and will be adjusting the volume on the sub separately. If driving from the same amp and the sub was FLAT at about 100db.... well then the BASS would always overwhelm the rest of the music unless you built a small circuit to allow it less wattage at the same volume setting.
On the link I showed you you will want to take notice of all the specs that are right below the picture of the driver. You dont really have to know what they mean but you have to place them into the right input boxes in WINISD.
One more thing. Vas means how many liters the driver needs to perform at its optimum. So if Vas is 100 you will need a 100liter enclosure. A quick way to decide if this sub is for you is to check the SPL, Vas and FS. So, how efficient is it, how big of a box does it need and whats the lowest frequency you can expect.
Ri
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