DIY Audio Projects Forum

Hello,

Newbie second post.

Sorry, yes I know it's in the wrong forum but when I looked at the dates on the posts in the "Enclosure Construction" forum I thought I would be dead and buried before I get an answer.

I just purchased an S5 Electronics Model 16LS amp kit http://www.s5electronics.com/l16stereo.html to be used as a tweeter amp. I'm looking for a nice aluminum chassis in which to mount it. Any suggestions besides the Hammond or Bud Industries chassis? I don't have a problem with them but I was thinking about a little heavier gauge?

I noticed a thread that mentioned VT4C. Any good luck with them? The chassis look nice on the web site but didn't exactly get a glowing recommendation on quality?

BTW, I saw that someone had shielded the top mounted transformers from the tubes. What are your thoughts on that setup? If so am I correct that it's just the output transformers that need to be shielded? Are they being shielded from the tubes only or the rest of the circuitry? The power transformer may get hot and benefit from being in the open air?

If you are looking for something more robust, Hammond also makes steel enclosures.

I have not tried a chassis from VT4C, but the chassis accessories I have tried (tube plates, transformer covers, tube protection frames) are good quality for the cost.

Also take a look at Par-metal: http://www.par-metal.com/
They have a good selection of aluminum chassis with a series specific for amps.

Cheers

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[ DIY Mains AC Power Cable Cord ] - [ Gobo LM1875 Amp Kit ] - [ Tang Band D4-1 Horn Speaker Kit ] - [ Monoblock Push-Pull KT88 Tube Amp Kit ]

The Hammond chassis (aluminum and steel) are quite sturdy. Remember: you're gonna drill holes (round and square) so don't go for a material that'll have you screaming "UNCLE!!!" Allied Electronics has a huge inventory of Bud, Hammon and others. You can spend days looking at options. Have fun with your build.

Oh...one more thing (or two). My hero Bruce Heran reminded me not to go small on chassis selection, and he's absolutely correct. Leave yourself plenty of room to move bits about. Think of it as a grown man's form of playing with a doll house, and don't start cutting or drilling until you a pretty sure where you want things to go. Oh, and think about experimenting with your own layout rather than using the PCB, just to keep things interesting. Board supplies are avalable from TubeDepot.com.

Hi, Welcome to the world of tube audio. I don't know that I qualify as a hero, but at one time or another have made nearly any mistake possible in electronics. I learned the lesson on the chassis size some time ago. Now I figure out about where everything should go and then order a chassis about 50% bigger. It makes the build easier, less chance of component interaction because they are too close and a lot easier to diagnose and trace out problems if any occur. A side benefit with tube gear is there is more air flow and parts are less likely to overheat and fail. I hope the newer K-16s are better than the first ones as they really had some issues on sound quality. It is part of the reason I design amps now. It is one thing to complain about something but far more noble to design a better one. I still figure the K-12 is a great starter amp and they should have left well enough alone. The loudness difference between the two is minimal (twice the power is not twice as loud).

Good listening
Bruce

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Some of my DIY Tube Amplifier Projects:

• PoddWatt: 5751 / EL84 Push-Pull DIY Tube Amplifier Project
• OddBlocks: KT88 Push-Pull DIY Tube Amplifiers (Mono Blocks)
• ForeWatt: ECC802S (12AU7 / ECC82) DIY Tube Preamplifier Project
• GrooveWatt: Tube (Valve) RIAA Phono Preamplifier Project