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 Post subject: Building Tarkus
PostPosted: 12 Aug 2012, 08:37 
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Joined: 12 Aug 2012, 07:25
Posts: 6
Hi!

So my 1st plan is build the Tarkus speakers.
I gave it some thought and decided that for some1 like me that never ever touched wood works should start with something that seems "simple" to do. The speakers are affordable and the casing seems simple to do.
This is to use with the amc amp i got recently and the yet to be pre-amp :)

Being my 1st ever venture in audio stuff and taking into consideration that i have to work with i already got do you guys think this is a good 1st project? I read most of the stuff people said about them and seemed nice.
This is a experience gatherer to-do and if everything works out ok will move this setup to my office room when i have built other set of speakers and a pure class a 30w amp so my living room becomes my spaceship :)

Also wanted to ask if using marine MDF is acceptable. Should i look for pine or something to make the cabins?
Is it really important?

o/


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 Post subject: Re: Building Tarkus
PostPosted: 30 Aug 2012, 18:36 
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Joined: 28 May 2008, 21:53
Posts: 4592
Location: Winnipeg, CANADA
Tarkus Speakers --> https://sites.google.com/site/undefinition/tarkus

Looks like an interesting speaker project. With regards to woodwork, the most difficult takes will be cutting the sheet wood down to size with a table saw. For never having worked with a table saw before, I would suggest you find someone (kijiji, craigslist ...) to cut the sheets to size for you.

What is marine MDF? Can you share a link.

Cheers

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[ DIY Mains AC Power Cable Cord ] - [ Gobo LM1875 Amp Kit ] - [ Tang Band D4-1 Horn Speaker Kit ] - [ Monoblock Push-Pull KT88 Tube Amp Kit ]


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 Post subject: Re: Building Tarkus
PostPosted: 30 Aug 2012, 18:39 
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Joined: 06 Jun 2008, 18:23
Posts: 5318
Location: Australia
Just took a look at the images: very nice.

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Projects: "Sortilege" - 180W Tripath Class D Mundorf upgrade amp | “Mantra” - tube MM phono preamp | "Carbon” - MM phono preamp | 180W RAW Class D amp |


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 Post subject: Re: Building Tarkus
PostPosted: 02 Sep 2012, 16:36 
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Joined: 12 Aug 2012, 07:25
Posts: 6
Hi there
(...)
Marine-grade plywood is available in a domestic PS 1-95 (American Plywood Association) or BS1088 (British Standard Institution) standards.

Marine-grade plywood made to the PS 1-95 is generally available in Douglas-fir. The grade of all plies of veneer is B or better, which means it may have knots, but no knotholes. Repairs are allowed and it is typical to see football plugs football plugon most Douglas Fir Marine Grade plywood. Besides the poor visual appearance of the plug, that area tends to be structurally inferior to other areas that have not been repaired, especially for thinner sheets of plywood.

The panels are sanded on both faces. The maximum core-gap size permitted is 1/8 inch, which also reduces structural performance.

PS 1-95 Marine-grade plywood is available in 4x8-foot sheets of 1/4, 3/8, 1/2, 5/8 and 3/4-inch thickness. Sheets up to 5x12 feet are also available, but I've seen the factories use straight joint techniques versus angled scarfing to attain the longer lengths, making the joint weak for most structural applications requiring more than tensile strength. It is nearly impossible to get A-A grade Marine Fir these days. Most US mills produce AB due to the quality of logs that are available. Fir tends to be more brittle than other woods and the permissible defects make CNC work a challenge. I have seen 1/2" fir with 6 plies. Even numbered plies make an unbalanced panel that is more likely to warp. The thicker veneer composition increases stiffness, and flexibility is preferred on thinner panels.

Marine-grade plywood made to the BS1088 standard is typically available in Okoume, although, Meranti, Sapele, Agba, Khaya, Makore, Moabi, Movingui, Sipo-Utile and other African and Southeast Asian species have been used. Permissible species must meet the durability requirements within the standard.

BS1088 calls for the same tropical hardwood specie to be used throughout the panel; exterior glue (melamine or phenolic) for the core; no repairs on the faces; no core gaps or overlaps. BS1088 also requires an odd number of plies to be used. Regardless of the type of boat being made or application, using BS1088 plywood is by far easier to work with and priced competitively to the fir option.

(...)


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 Post subject: Re: Building Tarkus
PostPosted: 02 Sep 2012, 16:40 
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Joined: 12 Aug 2012, 07:25
Posts: 6
I have the plan for building sorted, just waiting for a guy to come back from vacations to cut the panels.
Lets see what comes out of this because if it's a decent work i'll start the fe206e cabinets :)


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