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 NEW  Matt presents bias and operation data for the 6V6 tube in SE operation - 6V6 Single-Ended (SE) Ultra Linear (UL) Bias Optimization.

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It is currently 19 Jun 2019, 18:03

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PostPosted: 03 Jun 2018, 12:53 
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Joined: 11 Nov 2013, 22:35
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Matt,
Anymore comments on its performance or changes you would consider, now that you have lived with it for awhile?

Thanks,


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PostPosted: 05 Jun 2018, 19:22 
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Location: US Pacific Northwest
ToddD wrote:
Anymore comments on its performance or changes you would consider, now that you have lived with it for awhile?
Not really. I don't have any changes I'd make to the electrical design. I might make the chassis a little larger just for esthetics.

I will say that the amp plays best putting out a little volume. When that's what I want, in it goes. However, when I'm just listening quietly or for background music, I'm much more likely to be listening to my 6EM7 or Marblewood depending on the music.

I will also add that the 6336 is not a quick start kind of amp. Every 6336 I've used takes at least 5 minutes to stop "tinging" and "squeaking" (the tube not the amp) and for the sound to settle down. I think this is just a function of the size and power level of the output tube. After about 5 minutes it's all good.

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PostPosted: 05 Jun 2018, 19:34 
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Matt,
I don't need another amp, but this looks like a fun amp. Most likely use in my garage system to play rock n roll, but may move it to the main room to play blues.

Probably purchase parts between now and Christmas and hopefully have a picture to add some time after that. I was also looking at the lacewood also. Right now I think I will build both in time.

Thanks for all you contribute to this website. This noob appreciates it


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PostPosted: 28 Jun 2018, 04:03 
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Joined: 22 Feb 2017, 07:55
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Matt's design says 2.5K OPT for this design. I have a pair of Edcor CXSE25-5K. Can these be used here ? A parallel S.E maybe ?


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PostPosted: 28 Jun 2018, 18:02 
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jocelys1 wrote:
Matt's design says 2.5K OPT for this design. I have a pair of Edcor CXSE25-5K. Can these be used here ?
The short answer is yes. I would expect about 15% to 20% less power but lower distortion.

I originally played with 1.7kΩ and 2.5kΩ because I thought that the higher impedances overly constrained the big triode. I finally settled on the 2.5kΩ as the best tradeoff between power and distortion given what I generally like. The 5kΩ outputs should be very clean but about 1dB less power (not enough to worry about, IMHO).

Let us know how it goes.

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PostPosted: 10 Aug 2018, 09:22 
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Hi Matt, I'm itching to give this a go either with the CXSE25-5K I have or get the GXSE15 in your original design. Is there any way to squeeze more power out of the design ?

Will a parallel single-ended work ?


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PostPosted: 07 Jan 2019, 23:00 
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Update
I finished my Beast this weekend. Initial impression is that this amp has some grunt and has a full body sound. I am breaking it in, but I like it so far.

I have some photos but I am having a difficult time posting.

Thanks to Suncalc for posting your designs and the level of detail you provide in your write ups.


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PostPosted: 07 Jan 2019, 23:39 
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Photo of my version of the Beast.
This amp was built for my garage system so I wanted it to look kind of industrial and I may leave the wood unfinished. It is diamond tread and poplar from Home Depot.

I stuck to the schematic for the most part. I will post more details on the build later.


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PostPosted: 08 Jan 2019, 03:58 
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Location: Australia
Why not just rub the base with a little natural wood oil. It will bring up the grain and offers a little protection. Such a good build shame not to finish off the base.

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PostPosted: 08 Jan 2019, 20:34 
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But if I finished off the base it wouldn't match the rest of the system with unfinished speaker boxes.

As for build details. I kept it pretty close to the schematic. I decided to go with no electrolytic caps anywhere. The cap sizes as specified were not that big and I had room in the chassis for the larger size film caps. and it is something I wanted to try.

On the power supply schematic, I used a 10uf for C1 because I had one and I used 60uf motor run caps for C2, C3, and C4.

On the signal schematic, I used 1uf caps for the coupling caps because I had them. For the power tube, I used a 3.3K grid resistor and a 820 ohm cathode resistor, because I was not able to find a 910 ohm, 10 watt resistor.

Otherwise I followed the schematic and parts lists.

The amp is still burning in and I don't have it in its final location yet. So review is to come later.

thanks again to Suncalc for his level of detail and the designs he shares.


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